Prairie Seeding Procedures

Seeding

Hand Broadcasting

Once the area to be planted has been properly prepared, seeding can commence. On small areas of less than an acre or two, seed can be planted by hand broadcasting. Broadcast seeding a prairie is very similar to planting a lawn. Instead of using a seeder, the prairie seed should be mixed in a larger volume of a lightweight, inert material such as sawdust, peat moss, or vermiculite. This inert matter should be slightly damp, so that the seed will stick to it. For a 1000 square foot planting, two bushel baskets of inert material is plenty. For a tenth acre planting (4400 square feet), eight bushel baskets is sufficient. A pickup truck full of sawdust from a sawmill will cover one acre.

Mix the seed evenly into the inert material. Take one-half of the total mix and spread it across the area. In the event that you run out before covering the entire area, you still have the other half. Once you have covered the area with the first half of the seed mix, spread the second half evenly across the same area, walking perpendicular to your first pass. Rake or drag the seed into the soil so that it is lightly covered, 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Roll the site with a roller, or drive across it with truck or tractor tires to firm the seed into the soil. Do not roll the site if the soil is wet. Wait until the soil is dry to avoid soil compaction.

Mechanical Seeders

For larger areas, mechanical planters can be used. No-till drills that can successfully plant prairie grasses and flowers include the Truax drill, Tye drill and John Deere Rangeland drill. The Tye, Truax and John Deere seeders plant the seed in rows by opening slits in the soil into which the seed falls. These no-till drills cause minimal soil disturbance, and do not require that the soil be worked up for planting. This typically results in less weed seed germination.

If you are working up the soil prior to seeding, you can use a properly outfitted “double seed box” Brillion seeder. This has two separate seed boxes, one for grasses and one for flowers. The Brillion seeder broadcasts seed rather than drilling it, creating a more natural effect (no rows).The Brillion seeder requires a worked-up seedbed with loose surface soil. The heavy cast iron rollers of the Brillion seeder firms the seed into the soil, so that additional rolling is not necessary. Make two or three passes with the Brillion when seeding light sandy soils. This firms the soil and favors increased germination. Never mix prairie seed with inert materials when using mechanical seeders. These machines are designed to plant the prairie seeds alone. Mixing the seed with sawdust or vermiculite can clog these seeders, and is never recommended.

Most wildflower and prairie grass seeds require firm seed to soil contact to promote good germination and survival. Rolling the seeded area after planting is very important to success, especially on light, sandy soils. This procedure firms the soil around the seed and reduces moisture loss during the germination period. Hydro-seeding does not ensure firm seed-to-soil contact. For this reason, hydroseeding is not recommended for wildflower and prairie grass seedings. Results in hydro-seeded plantings to date have been spotty, with numerous failures.

Special Fall Planting Tip

This technique works only on sites that have had all weeds eliminated by spraying, smothering, or cultivating. If all of the vegetation is completely dead by autumn, prairie seed can be hand broadcast or machine planted on top of the soil in late fall with no soil tillage. The seed will work its way down into the soil as the soil freezes and thaws throughout the winter. Note: This method will not work with spring seedings, as the seed will not work its way down into the soil without winter frost action.

Most native wildflower seed germinates better after exposure to a period of cold temperature, called stratification. This is a natural protective mechanism that prevents the seed from germinating at the wrong time of year. For more information on seed propagation and stratification techniques we recommend the Prairie Propagation Handbook.

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Mulching

A covering of 1-2 inches of weed-free straw or marsh hay after seeding helps hold in moisture and increases germination. This is particularly important on dry sandy soils and heavy clay soils. Straw should completely cover the soil surface. Chopping and blowing the straw onto the area is best, as it is less susceptible than hand-spread straw to being blown away by wind. On steep slopes and windy sites, hold the straw in place by staking down a jute or plastic mesh netting over it, or apply a light erosion blanket instead of straw. Never use field hay, as it invariably contains innumerable weed seeds. In swales and ditches, a high velocity erosion blanket may be required. Use erosion blankets that contain weed-free straw, or excelsior mulch material.

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Watering

Spring and summer seedings will benefit greatly from regular watering during the first 6-8 weeks after planting. This encourages higher germination and seedling survival. After eight weeks water only if it does not rain for one week. Always water in the early morning. Watering during the day is often ineffective and wasteful. Watering in the afternoon and evening encourages high night-time moisture levels that can lead to seedling loss by fungal attack. Water every other day for 15 minutes to half an hour, just enough to keep the soil moist. Overwatering can drown seedlings, especially on heavy clay soils.

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Nurse Crops

Nurse crops such as annual rye and oats can be planted with the prairie seed to stabilize the soil and reduce weed growth. When planted at the recommended rates, these annual “nurse plants” grow rapidly without competing with the wildflowers and grasses. Nurse crops occupy the “ecological niche” that would otherwise be taken by annual weeds, thus reducing weed growth. Nurse crops generally do not reseed themselves.

Warning! Never use winter wheat, winter rye, or perennial rye as a nurse crop. Studies have shown that wheat and rye produce chemicals in their roots that can suppress germination of other plants. Perennial rye is a fast growing cool season rye that can outcompete your prairie seedlings, and should never be used as a nurse crop.

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